In an era where consumers are more conscious of where their clothes come from, how they’re made, and what impact they have on the planet, brands are fighting to keep up with a new demand: authentic sustainability. H&M has seemingly been a pioneer in that movement; at least, that is what they want you to believe. With campaigns focused on recycling initiatives, sustainably sourced fabrics, and their high-profile Conscious Collection, H&M presents itself as a pioneer in eco-friendly fashion. But look beneath the surface, and you will find a serious identity clash at play.
First, we will dive into the branding perspective. H&M uses soft green visuals, earthy tones, and recycled paper bags. Its message evolves around closing the loop in fashion. Another powerful tool is their collaborations with sustainability influencers and eco-designers. They publish public sustainability reports and future-looking climate goals. H&M has taken the language of eco-activism and combined it with the accessibility and affordability that defines fast fashion. To the average shopper, it feels like a win-win situation. Customers are fed the illusion that while they look good, they can also feel good about contributing to saving the planet.
When we look at the organizational identity of H&M, we find that it still very much is fast fashion. The issue is that H&M is a fast fashion giant. The core of its business model relies on rapid production cycles, with new designs dropping weekly. Furthermore, their massive global output encourages overconsumption. H&M uses cheap job markets, where transparency is still questionable. Another issue is the short product lifespans, which directly contribute to textile waste.
No matter how many green campaigns they run, the fact remains: you can’t produce billions of garments per year and call yourself sustainable. This is where the fundamental mismatch becomes clear. The corporate identity, the story they sell, is not fully aligned with the organizational identity, the way they operate.
This brings up the uncomfortable but necessary question: Is H&M greenwashing? Critics argue that the Conscious Collection is a textbook case—a tiny sliver of the brand’s output used to paint the whole operation as eco-conscious. The company has been challenged legally and publicly over vague claims and lack of clarity in how conscious products are defined. And yet, despite regular waves of criticism, H&M seems to brush it off and move forward—with barely a dent in its brand perception.
There is a reason why, despite all the discrepancies, they stay unaffected by criticism. H&M’s reputation management is incredibly skilled at controlling the narrative. They respond quickly and diplomatically to bad press. For example, the publishing of sustainability reports that highlight progress, even when it is minimal. Overall, H&M positions itself as a work in progress, which is a powerful shield. After all, who does not want to support a company trying to do better?
Their PR team knows how to speak the language of progress. They rarely get defensive; instead, they acknowledge problems and turn the conversation to their efforts, ambitions, and roadmaps. In today’s media landscape, perception often trumps perfection—and H&M knows how to play the game.
Global Communications Research 